Baked Till Golden Brown: The History and Continuing Evolution of the Filipino-Chinese Bakery Association, Inc. (FCBAI)

The baking process has often been used as a metaphor for growth and progress. From the moment oil and water are mixed into the flour, and the dough is kneaded into the desired consistency, the steps are likened to formation and development. And when that dough is placed into the oven to bake completely, the action represents how the application of heat raises it to a level higher than what it used to be when it was but simple batter. 

This can very well be said about the Filipino-Chinese Bakery Association, Inc. (FCBAI). For its beginnings were forged under pressure, with moments of crisis sprinkled along the way. But on its 50th year, the association has emerged like gold that has been refined through fire, a testament to the fulfillment of its goal to care and assist its members in the best way that it can. 

The Bond of Bakers

This prestigious association of Filipino-Chinese bakers was formed in September 1965. It was not yet called FCBAI back then. Rather, it was known as the Filipino-Chinese Bakery and Hopia Factory Association, initiated by the late Mariano Sioco, Chua Lee, and other top-rated bakery operations in the Sta. Cruz and Quiapo areas. 

The association was established in response to the challenges of the business climate brought about by some of the policies instituted by then Manila Mayor Antonio Villegas, which prohibited foreigners from selling rice products. The association came together to work with the government in order to address this particular problem. 

As the association grew, it also realized the need for its members to improve baking processes and adopt updated technology. At that time, the bakeries were still using traditional brick ovens and manual mixing. Thus, the late president Sioco, followed by the next association president Chua Lee, worked towards formulating new and improved policies to develop the industry. 

The association first held office in 1966 at the Globo de Oro, where it rented space under the wooden staircase. Serving simply as a contact office, it was only able to accommodate a table and chair. But by the late ‘70s, the office was moved to Echague in Quiapo. This space within the Salem Building, given free alongside Salem Bakery, provided better service for its members. 

In 1966, the association ceased to be known as the Filipino-Chinese Bakery &Hopia Factory Association, and was henceforth called the Filipino-Chines Bakery Association, Inc. (FCBAI). 

Turning up the Heat

In the early ‘80s, during the Martial Law years, there developed a scarcity in the supply of sugar, oil, and flour. Uniting the different suppliers, the association engaged in joint efforts to address this problem. The members met and agreed to provide special allocations to small bakery operators. 

But the bakers were not out of the woods yet. They may have just jumped from the frying pan into the fire. 

In 1983, following the lifting of Martial Law yet still within former president Marco’s time, the situation had worsened. There was a greater shortage of flour. And even if the bakers were able to buy flour, they paid an exorbitant amount for it, or were forced to pay at black market prices. Many bakeries had no choice, but to close down because of this crisis. 

To regulate the distribution and sale of flour, the government established the National Food Authority (NFA). This agency rationed flour allocations depending on the bakeries’ oven capacity. Once the owners received their allocation permits, they then had to go to the NFA warehouse to withdraw the actual sacks of flour. 

This was a tedious and costly exercise for many bakery owners, many of whom did not have the time and resources to go through the whole process. 

Benito Ong was FCBAI president at that time. To work out this dilemma, he and another FCBAI past president, Henry Ah, initiated efforts to help the association members in following the NFA procedure. A very efficient staff interacted with NFA, and two trucks picked up the flour and delivered this to the members’ bakeries. For this service, members donated one peso per sack of flour to the association. 

Happy members became productive members. And realizing that FCBAI had only their best interest in mind, more bakery owners decided to join the association. By 1985, FCBAI’s membership had risen astoundingly. 

It was also in 1985 that FCBAI decided that it was time to build its own headquarters, a building that would be its home and from which its members can be given the opportunity to grow further. Utilizing a portion of the fund that was accumulated from the donations of bakeries regarding NFA procedures, FCBAI was able to purchase a 300-sqm lot on Rizal Avenue near Tayuman street in Sta. Cruz, Manila with the help of former presidents Henry Ah and Benito Ong. 

On the Rise

As the association began working out of its new building, they realized that as bakers, they had much to learn in terms of technology. And so, they began conducting baking workshops in the spacious Baking Workshop, seeking experts to bring them up to date in the bakery industry. 

Training tours had also been organized so that members could increase their knowledge and capabilities, as well as update them with the latest industry trends and technology. The members went on learning trips to Taiwan, Korea, the United States, Germany, and other countries in Europe. Upon returning to the Philippines, they, in turn, shared their newly acquired knowledge with the other FCBAI members. 

Through these initiatives, FCBAI continuously cements itself not only as an authority in the country, but as a strong member globally, able to proudly stand side-by-side with others in the region. 

Likewise, other industry partners and suppliers also share their expertise by training FCBAI members concerning innovative products and techniques. These workshops and seminars are held at the Baking Center, which was inaugurated in 2006 under FCBAI President Ching Suy Eh, and are scheduled regularly throughout the year, open to members and non-members. 

Bigger Than Baking

In addition to workshops and seminars, one of the biggest signature events led by the association is The Bakery Fair, first organized in 2001, during the term of past president Gerry Chua. Today, it continues to be one of the most highly anticipated affairs in the industry. 

With the mission of creating awareness for the bakeries, at a cost that is affordable for bakery owners, The Bakery Fair is mounted every two years, to coincide with every FCBAI president’s term. It is now gearing up for its 14th edition, giving the country’s baking industry a venue for tasting new products, sharing ideas, exploring more opportunities, and expanding business networks. 

The Bakery Fair in Manila is a celebrated event, marked by immense crowds, colorful booths, and delicious food from hundreds of exhibitors. It is usually staged at the World Trade Center, which accommodates thousands of visitors who come over. 

In 2018, FCBAI took on an even greater task, staging the first Bakery Fair outside of Metro Manila, in Davao. “Our greater vision is to bring together all the baking communities across Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao. We are incredibly grateful for the reception of the Bakery Fair in Davao,” shares the visionary former president Bien Enrico Ah. 

Bakery Fair Davao, though an immense undertaking, proved to be successful for the expanding initiatives of FCBAI. 

While FCBAI takes pride in hosting these large-scale events, it also makes sure that it caters to its smaller groups through workshops – led by master chefs and bakers – and seminars by experts in the industry. 

In addition to the master’s workshops, FCBAI has been hosting kids’ seminars every summer. This was established to elicit the interest of the next generation towards the baking industry, and also to train them to be the next bakers and bakery owners. The young ones are taught how to bake simple items like pizza, cupcakes, pancakes, and cookies, to inspire a passion and love for baking. 

During the term of FCBAI president Bien Enrico Ah, the association acquired new technology and new machinery to further strengthen the quality of flour analysis equipment. Through it, FCBAI could assess the qualities of the different flour being sold currently in the market, from the particular type of flour, as well as its moisture content. Soon, the results will be published in their newsletter and uploaded to the website, to serve as reference for its members. 

“Acquiring the new equipment is part our commitment to our members. As a true authority and leader in the baking industry, we are here to guide and assist bakers and entrepreneurs. Though baking is an old culinary tradition, we want to make sure that people behind it are updated, educated, and equipped to take on the growing, evolving, and competitive market, shared Ah, adding that from being called the FCBAI Baking Center, it has now been renamed the FCBAI Research and Training Institute. 

Time of COVID-19

Under Bien Enrico Ah’s leadership, the FCBAI experienced impressive growth. There was a renewed interest in the association, as younger bakers and entrepreneurs began approaching FCBAI, bringing fresh energy and ideas. It seemed like the association was on a smooth path to even greater success.

But no one could have anticipated the challenges that lay ahead. The COVID-19 pandemic was just around the corner, ready to turn the world upside down. By March 2020, a nationwide lockdown was in full effect, and like many other industries, the baking world came to a grinding halt.

As the pandemic unfolded, so did an economic crisis. Businesses everywhere struggled, but for the baking industry, there was a silver lining—bread remained a staple in every Filipino household. Despite the tough times, FCBAI’s president, Peter Fung, steered the association through the storm. In a remarkable feat, he even managed to stage the Bakery Fair Manila, keeping the spirit of the community alive.

After Fung, Wiliam Ong assumed the presidency in 2020. His term, however, was tragically cut short, and Royce Gerik Chua stepped in to lead the association. With face-to-face gatherings still off-limits, the beloved Bakery Fair was put on hold. Nonetheless, Chua guided FCBAI through the pandemic, supporting allied members and bakery members during this difficult time.

Innovation was key to survival. FCBAI transformed its baking center into a hub for online demonstrations, allowing allied members to showcase their ingredients virtually. It was during this period that the association hosted its very first virtual Bakery Fair, adapting to the times and keeping the community connected.

Christopher Ah, the younger sibling of Bien Enrico, seized the opportunity in the post-pandemic era to push for an aggressive recruitment campaign. His efforts paid off, growing the association’s allied members by 36% and bakery members by 10%, the highest numbers in FCBAI history. With the worst of the pandemic behind, the FCBAI was ready to embrace the future.

As the threat of COVID-19 diminished, onsite events returned in full swing. FCBAI launched a series of exciting events, including the Taiwan Bakery Industry Exploration (March 11-16, 2024), The Art of Taiwanese Noodle Making (April 18, 2024), Taiwan Bread Trends (April 19-20, 2024), the Baguio Outreach Seminar: "Train the Trainer" (April 24-25, 2024), and the much-anticipated Baking Camp (June 29, 2024).

Today, as a new generation of FCBAI leaders takes the reins, there is a fresh sense of vibrancy and optimism within the association. With membership continuing to grow nationwide, there is excitement in the air. Members eagerly look forward to further technological advancements, enhanced baking skills, and techniques, as well as broader global opportunities and collaborations in the years ahead.